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Rachel Hauser asked:




Painting your fence every few years is a great way to spruce up the look of your yard and extend the life of the fence. Different types of fences require different methods of painting.

Your previously painted wood fence will need to be touched up every year or two, or completely repainted. Either way, these fences often have offset boards that defy ordinary painting methods and are usually made of rough lumber. The paint tool of choice should be a sprayer.

Prior to painting you should prepare the fence by scraping away any flakes and chips.

If your fence is not too large, a handheld cup sprayer would work, these usually have a quart size reservoir. For a larger fence, refilling a quart size reservoir would become tiresome. Instead, consider renting an airless sprayer with a suction tube that can be used with any size container.

Try to control your overspray by following these tips:

-Do not spray paint on windy days. Wait for calm weather to paint.

-Check the opposite side of the fence and be sure that there is no car, lawn equipment or other object near the fence. Ask your neighbor to move everything of value from the area.

-Buy plastic sheeting and staple it so it drapes over the opposite side of the fence. When you paint the backside of the fence, remove the sheeting and cover your own side of the fence so that airborne paint is stopped before it can travel or become windblown.

-Finally, don’t over thin your paint or stain.

Chain-link fencing has a durable galvanized coating that keeps it trouble-free for years. Eventually, though, even this galvanizing will fail, and the fence will require painting.

Wire fencing can be difficult to paint. Brushing on paint is usually slow and tedious, while spraying the open fencing permits too much wasted paint from overspray. The best solution is to use a long-nap paint roller, about 1″ to 1-1/2″. The long nap reaches into the weave of the wire and covers hard to reach corners. Try to get your neighbor to paint his side at the same time. This way, you will see each others’ misses and can touch up the paint as you go.

Before starting, use a rotary wire brush to clean away loose rust on the fence. You can also use an ordinary wire brush to clean the surface. When everything is properly prepared, wipe down the fence with a sponge that has been soaked in mineral spirits. When the fence is dry, apply the paint. Be sure to use a paint designed for covering metal, not woods.

Gregg Hicks asked:




Painting slanted ceilings is a chore, but it may not be as difficult as you might think. Of course, it is always a challenge to paint any ceiling, but once you figure out what colors you are using and how to design your paint color scheme, painting slanted ceilings is just like painting the walls. There are a few things to think about before you start, specifically what colors you want to use for your walls and ceiling, and whether or not you want to distinguish between the ceiling and the wall. If you do want to distinguish the ceiling from the wall, you need to know where that line should lie on the wall.

Choosing your colors for the walls and ceiling are an important part of painting slanted ceilings. There are several options for your color scheme: you can choose the same color for the walls and the ceiling; you can choose two colors, one for the ceiling and one for the walls; or, you can choose three colors, one for the slanted ceiling wall, one for the other three walls in the room, and one for the ceiling itself.

The benefit of choosing three colors is that you can draw attention to the slanted ceiling, which is generally a very interesting architectural aspect in a room. Some people choose a lighter color for this wall and then a darker color for the other remaining walls and white or a coordinating color for painting the slanted ceilings. Other people choose to put the darker color on the wall with the slant, and then use the light color on the other walls. When more than one color is used on the walls, the ceiling is usually white.

Now you need to decide how to distinguish where to start painting slanted ceilings compared to where you paint the wall. This requires the use of a laser level. Place the level at the height you want the ceiling color to begin. A good tip is to make the ceiling color line even with that of the other walls in the room. Now use masking tape to mark where the wall and ceiling colors will change, and starting painting your slanted ceilings!

Nicky Taylor asked:




House painting can be confusing for many homeowners who are trying to balance between affordability and longevity. Many people struggle with the decision of whether to use a life time warranted paint on the exterior of their home, or a less expensive 25 year warranted paint. I am often asked what I think about their prospective inclusion of life time paint for their house painting project. I usually respond by saying “it depends” followed by a few questions to determine what they want to achieve with their house painting project.

The first thing you need to consider is: what are your expectations from life time paint? Are your expectations realistic?

Paint manufacturers love to sell you on the idea of life time paint. It’s good business for them. It’s certainly easy for you to fall for this seemingly incredible warranty, considering the cost of having your house painted these days, but are you getting what you believe you’re getting.

There are 4 basic reasons you will need to repaint your home.

1. The paint you have now is faded and looks tired and dingy.

2. The caulked joints of your home have separated allowing water enter.

3. There are places where the paint is peeling.

4. You become tired of the old color and want to freshen up your home with new colors.

Let’s take a closer look at these four reasons in relation to life time paint.

The truth is, life time warranted paints fade with exposure to sun light and weather, so if you are expecting it to look fresh 25 years from now, then you have been misled. First, you need to read the warranty of the life time paint. Excessive fading is covered by the warranty. Notice this does not mean “no fading”. It reads the same as a lesser grade paint. Life time warranted paints lose their clarity in color over time. Now your back to the 1st reason you needed to paint to begin with. Yes, it will maintain its fresh look longer than a lesser grade paint, but not a lot longer.

The caulked joints that have separated on your home are not caused from an inferior paint. Caulked joints separate due to expansion and contraction of the materials that constitute your home. Life time warranted paints can’t stop this movement; therefore, reason number 2 will still be in play if you paint with life time warranted paint.

For reason number 3 you have a clear advantage with some life time paints. Some life time paints are up to 70 percent ticker and have a greater ability to stretch. When it comes to peeling substrate, this is important, because a paint that is 70 percent thicker and more flexible will make it much harder for the underlying paint to peel and release. Most warranties do not cover inner layer peeling, however, most life time paints do give a limited warranty against peeling. It is possible that the inner layers of paint are so compromised that the problem extends beyond the capabilities of life time paint. This is especially true if the wood on the house wasn’t primed before the top coat was applied when the house was built.

Check the specification of the paint carefully. Some life time paints are not thicker than 25 year paints, therefore can’t offer the same protection as the thicker life time brands when it comes to peeling.

How many people want to live with the same color on their house for the rest of their life? I’ve never met anyone yet that could say they did, and I have been in this business for over 25 years. The truth is most people like change. Color change is very important for most people.

The strongest reason for using life time paints really may have nothing to do with the points listed above. It may have to do more with the fact you are planning to change the color.

Life time paints can save you money.

If you are planning on changing the colors of your home you may want to consider using the life time warranted paints. They can actually save you money, even though they cost nearly double the price of 25 year paint.

Consider this: If your planning to change colors, you probably will need two coats of paint, which will cost you an extra 60 to 70 percent on average. Often you will be able to cover with one coat using a life time paint because it is a thicker paint. The difference between the cost of using one coat of life time paints and two coats of 25 year paint is going to be between 1,200 and 1,400 dollars. That’s considerable savings.

Most manufacturers of life time warranted paints are counting on the average person moving every 6 to 8 years. The warranty is non transferable. If you do stay in the home long enough and make a claim on the paint, they will prorate any refund on the paint only, but not the labor.

Budda Oliver asked:




Taping and tarping are the two essential steps to creating a clean and precise indoor painting project. To be done well in advance of opening any paint cans, taping and tarping require some careful planning and a little bit of know how, but with just an hour or so of preparation, you will ensure a well-painted room with minimal accidents.

Taping: When painting the inside of a room you need to be aware of a few precautions that are special to interior painting. Typically, exterior paint jobs require that the painter have knowledge of the location, type, and direction of their strokes but does not demand a terrible amount of knowledge of the terrain that the individual will be coating. For the most part, painting outside entails that you will be covering broad swaths or thin strips without regard to individual fixtures on the surface of which you paint. Interior painting differs on this element with regards to special location and knowledge of the particular area. You will need to survey your walls and discover which objects you will need to avoid covering. Such objects may potentially include: light fixtures; circuit-breakers; doors, door knobs, and door handles; and borders of ceilings, walls, and floors. A general rule of thumb is that any object that breaks the smooth plane on which the bulk of your painting is to be done should be avoided and taped off. Once identified, the taping procedure entails that you take a role of masking tape and mark off the exact border that you wish to make off limits to your new coat of paint. Border the edges of the objects you wish to avoid by placing the far edge of the tape where the object meets the flat surface. While they do constitute a change in vector, angles of a wall that is otherwise continuous should be treated as parts of a plane surface and do not need to taped off- you will want to paint all of these surfaces.

Tarping: The second half of the physical preparation for your project is tarping. Just as in taping, tarping requires that you know your limits and be ready to create a border on which you will not paint over. So, before you begin unrolling your tarp, either eyeball or mark with an erasable pencil the exact perimeter inside which you will be painting. Once you have clearly distinguished the area to be painted, purchase a length of clear plastic tarp from a hardware store and cut out swathes for each plane that you will be coating. Each swath should be two feet thick and the distance of the plane you plan to paint. In painting, when one talks about planes, one means to say the continuous surface to-be-painted. For example, if you are covering two perpendicular walls, each wall would constitute a plane. If you are coating a ceiling, the entire floor needs to be tarped; if you are painting just the floor, you do not need to tarp but should tape the entire perimeter of the floor. Tape each swath of tarp to the edges of the plane that you will paint, make sure that the tarp is flush up against the border.

These preparatory steps will ensure that your project is neat and effective. Doubtless, you will end up speckling some paint in unwanted areas and will need to clean your room after the project has been finished, but with precise taping and tarping you can minimize the time you spend on your hands and knees cleaning off spots, and maximize the efficacy of your project.

Charlie Angeles asked:




Your house is your lifetime asset. And it’s a matter of time when you take a notice that your house needs renovation - not because it’s getting old, but because you feel the need of vibrant colors in your house.

Repainting your house is a tricky business. Some rely on painting companies to do the job for you. Hiring the house painting service may also cost you. But if you are planning to paint it yourself, you might want to consider the basics; and consider the time and effort you will put on painting your house.

PAINT

There are many types of paint available today, some giving different surface finishes, others are designed for a particular application. Choosing the correct paint type may appear to be confusing at first, but once you have projected which theme you would like to paint your house and sorted out which job and what finishes you want, the choice is rather easy.

There are two bases of paint for your house: solvent-based (oil or alkyd) and water-based (latex). Oil-based paints dry slow - usually taking up to 24 hours. The best clean up for an oil-based paint is turpentine or paint thinner. Latex paints’ advantage is that it dries relatively fast, but it is not desirable in hot weather or direct sunshine. The best clean up for latex paints requires just soap and water. So if you are painting the inside of your house, it is recommended to use water-based paints, while solvent-based paints are suggested for painting the exterior of your house.

There are different types of paints that is either water-based or solvent-based that produces different finishes that is measured by its sheen factor. “Sheen” is a term used to describe the degree of light reflection the paint has. Lesser sheen for an interior or exterior paint means it has lesser stain resistance.

· A Gloss paint is easy to clean and resists scuffs better. This is ideal for rooms that are constantly used. Most gloss paints are best recommended to use on woodworks, baseboards, kitchen and bathroom walls, doorjambs, and window casings. The downside of using gloss paints, however, is the noticeable imperfections in the wall surface.

· A High-gloss paint is highly reflective and works well for highlighting details, such as trim and decorative molding. They are also the best choice for doors and cabinet - or any area that sees a high volume of abuse.

· Semi-gloss paints are very similar to gloss plaints except it has lesser sheen. Semi-gloss is also suitable for rooms with high humidity (best used for children’s room) and can be used for trim works and casings. These paints ensure maximum durability.

· Eggshell paints provide a smooth and low-sheen finish. Paints that are smooth and low-sheen that is ideal for your living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, and dens. It is washable and ideal for bedrooms, hallways, home offices and family rooms.

· Satin paints offer a good combination of easy-clean and moderate sheen. These paints go a step above eggshell in scrubbing ability. They perform and look great in just about any room.

· Flat paints (matte paints) are non-reflective and always a good choice for large walls and ceilings. Flat paints hides imperfections on wall surfaces and spatters well during application. Flat paints are the best choice for vinyl and aluminum siding that is scratched or dented because it hides imperfections and spatters less when applied. These paints are ideal for low-traffic areas such as formal dining rooms and master bedrooms.

Special paints have been innovated from different consumer insights and brilliant paint technology that allows specific paints for specific needs.

· Ceiling flats are designed specially for ceilings. These are usually extra spatter-resistant.

· Primer paints may be oil- or water-based and are used to seal unpainted surfaces to prevent covering coats of paint soaking in. The appropriate type of primer should be used for the surface being painted - wood, metal, plaster or tiles. There are some ‘all purpose primers’ available which are designed for two or more of these surfaces.

· Anti-condensation paints are used for rooms with humid conditions such as kitchen and bathrooms. This paint is usually formulated to prevent condensation and often includes fungicide.

· Fire-retardant paints do not resist fires completely but its fire-resistance formulation prevents it from fire in spreading fast.

It is also important that before painting your room, you use a primer. A primer will help paint adhere to the surface by providing a uniform appearance. It is a must to use a primer if you are painting over new wood, bare wood, drywall, or repainting over existing bright or dark colors.

But before doing this, you have to know the condition of the surface you wanted to paint. Regardless of whether the base coat is oil or latex, you must dull glossy paint by sanding or de-glossing it with a chemical de-glossing product. If you don’t dull glossy paint, the second coat will streak and not stick to the base coat when drying.

INTERIOR PAINTING

If you want to alter your room’s ambience, painting it is a great option. When interior painting, use paints that are quicker to dry and does not have a strong odor that lingers around where your kids can smell it.

Painting the interior of your house requires a thorough estimation, visualization and preparation. When you have chosen your theme for your rooms and have bought the job materials you need (paints, paint brushes and rollers, extension handles, paint tray, paint stirrer, drop clothes, step ladder, painter’s tape, etc.), you simply follow these interior house painting tips:

BEFORE AND DURING HOUSE PAINTING

· Always provide adequate ventilation when painting inside your house. If you cannot get enough ventilation in the work area, use a respirator or a mask.

· Keep paint containers or solvent containers closed when not in use.

· Keep paint products out of the reach of children.

· Avoid direct contact with skin.

· Always read packaging (label) instructions.

SURFACE PREPARATION TIPS

· Remove as much as furniture as possible from the room or group the heavier fixtures and the delicate ones together and cover them with a drop cloth.

· Provide adequate lightning to allow a good view of painting imperfections.

· Remove switch plates.

· Patch holes and cracks in the surfaces you wanted to paint with premixed spackling paste. After the paste dries, sand the patched the areas.

· Dust and wash the ceilings, walls, baseboards, windows and door moldings.

· Clean, sound wallpaper can be painted over, but in most cases it is better to strip it. Painting over a wallpaper may begin to peel.

PAINTING YOUR CEILING TIPS

· If you are painting the entire room, it is best to paint the ceiling first!

· If you are using a paint roller, maneuver your arms in series of diagonal swaths (forming a letter M). Fill in the open areas by cross rolling.

· If you are using a paintbrush, apply the paint in short strokes towards the unpainted area, known as “wet to dry.” Then brush back into the area you just painted for a smooth surface.

· If you are painting your ceiling, remove light bulbs, chandeliers, fluorescent lights and fixture covers.

· Paint trim first, including edging around the ceiling, molding, and trim.

WALL PAINTING TIPS

· Paint around the trim first, including edging around the ceiling.

· When painting with a gloss finish, make the final brush strokes away from the light source of the room. The tiny ridges that a brush leaves won’t be as pronounced. Use the same “wet to dry” method of painting.

WOODWORK

· Check woodwork for damage. if there is one, patch it with a wood filler, dry it overnight and sand it for any rough spots and apply a sealer before painting.

· If you’ll be using the same paint on the walls and woodwork, paint the woodwork as you come to it. If it is another color of higher in gloss, wait until the walls are done.

· Paint double-hung windows from the wood between the panes then outward. On casement windows, us the same technique, but keep the windows slightly open until the paint dries.

· For panel doors, paint the decorative molded edges first, then the individual panels. Paint from the center out. When the panels are completed, paint the vertical and horizontal flat panels.

· Use a painter’s tape or painter’s shield to keep paint off windowpanes. Do not use a masking tape or a duct tape. Using a painter’s tape or painter’s shield allows you to keep areas covered for up to 3 days.

· Paint the top edge baseboards first, then the bottom along the floor. Paint the middle section last.

· Remove cabinet doors and drawers and paint the flat surfaces first. Paint inside the edges, then move to the outer surfaces.

CLEAN-UP and STORAGE or DISPOSAL TIPS

· If there are paint drops on your floor, don’t let it stay there. As the paint sets longer, the harder it will be cleared. Use a cloth with soap and water or a solvent for cleaning.

· Use a razor-blade scraper or a putty knife to chip off bigger paint droplets that have dried.

· Use a scraper to trim around windowpanes.

· Wash and dry paintbrushes and rollers. Store them according to the brand’s recommendation not all paintbrushes have the same type of bristles nor the rollers have the same material.

· Clean the paint from the rim of the can. Tap container lids tight with a hammer and block of wood.

· Store solvent-based paint cans upside down to prevent a skin from forming.

· Store your paints in normal or room temperature. Never put the paints in extreme hot or cold rooms.

· Each states in the U.S. or every community/ county differs on paint can disposal methods. Check your local environmental, health, and safety laws.

EXTERIOR PAINTING

In buying paints that you are going to use for your exterior house, you have to pick a brand that has essential characteristics: hiding power, color retention, chalk-resistance, and blister resistance.

Hiding power comes from the paint’s pigment and is affected by the manner and thickness of the application. Color retention is the ability to maintain its original color during exposure to sunlight, etc. Chalking resistance prevents the white chalky powder from forming on the surface and lightening the color of the paint. Chalking occur over a period of time. Blister resistance keeps excessive moisture from coming through the substrate and affecting the paint layer. Tip: if paint is applied over a damp or wet surface, blistering is imminent.

Painting the exterior of your house requires a thorough estimation, visualization and preparation. When you have chosen your theme for your rooms and have bought the job materials you need.

You will need any of these tools in painting your exterior: caulk, sandpaper, rags and/or paper towels, painter’s tape, garden hose, power washer, or hose brush attachment, sponges & buckets for wash water, spray nozzle, stepladder, extension ladder, paint scraper, wire brush, putty knives, heat gun, rotary paint removing tool and electric drill, caulk gun, sanding block, and work gloves.

When you have all the tools at hand, examine your exterior. You might find exterior painting problems, which could be any of the following: alligatoring, blistering, chalking, chalk run down, crackling, dirt pickup, efflorescence, fading, frosting, lapping, mildew, nail head rusting, paint incompatibility, peeling, poor alkali resistance, poor adhesion, poor gloss retention, surfacent leaching, staining, vinyl siding wrap, wax bleed, or wrinkling.

If you already know what your house exterior’s problem is or just for repainting it, simply follow some of these tips. You can also refer to INTERIOR PAINTING for brush or roller strokes, etc.:

· Start by thoroughly cleaning the outside of your home. Start at the top and work your way down the sides of the house. If your siding has areas of mold, mildew or discoloration, wash it with an anti-fungal cleaner.

· Mask off areas that are not to be painted. You may want to place masking tape along the edge of house trim, and around window and door frames and trim, since this is likely to be painted in a different color or with a higher sheen paint. You can also tape newspaper or plastic drop cloth material over windows and doors, including sliding glass doors, to protect them from drips.

· Place plastic drop cloths over plants and shrubs, or where paint may drip on porches, roof sections, sidewalks, driveways or other surfaces.

House painting takes time, house painting costs a big chunk on your budget, but the end-result is always great.

Gary Pearson asked:




Painting ceramic tile is one of the best home makeovers you can easily (and cheaply!) accomplish. With the wide variety of colors and stencils available these days, transforming a tiled area with fabulous results is as easy as painting the walls.

Any tiled area in your home can be painted over with the exception of areas with water/high humidity. There are products out there that can handle the moisture in these areas (bathtub or shower surrounds or floors), but they are best left to the experts.

To begin, choose your paint wisely. Oil-based paints will stick better, but take longer to dry thoroughly. Acrylic paints will peel without properly preparing the tile ahead of time. If you choose acrylic paints, you will spend more time preparing the area for painting than you will actually painting.

Simple steps for painting ceramic tile:

1. Thoroughly clean the area to be painted with a mild abrasive cleanser. Make sure you clean the grout as well.
2. Buy, beg or borrow an orbital sander - even a hand-held unit will do. Sand the tile lightly, just enough to scratch the shiny glaze and give the paint something to hold on to. If you are using acrylic paint, you will want to remove most (if not all) of the glaze.
3. Clean the tile again to remove the dust from sanding. Let the area dry for 48 hours (the grout takes longer to dry).
4. Paint your tiles with a high adhesion primer and let dry completely. Add a second coat if the tile color shows through.
5. Very lightly sand over the primer again, to remove any upright points the paint roller may have left. Be careful not to sand off too much!
6. Paint your area, using a low-nap roller. If your paint is too thick, thin it slightly, according to the manufacturers instructions.
7. You can add stencils, stripes or free hand designs at this point. Let your imagination guide you!
8. After your new color is completely dry (about 2 days), apply at least one coat of water-based urethane, to protect the surface of the paint. Painted tile floors will want additional coats of urethane, to preserve that fabulous new look.

Painting ceramic tile does not have to be hard or expensive. With the right tools and know-how, you can create a unique style in any area of your home, inside or out. These simple steps can be used on new, loose tile as well, to create one-of-a-kind trivets, coasters and more, or for future tiling use. Kids can help and create their own masterpieces as well, for gift-giving or show-and-tell at school. Explore your creative side and gain valuable experience doing smaller projects before tackling that spare bathroom with the lime green tile.

Petar Zivkovic asked:




Painting windows and trim is a popular DIY project with many homeowners because it gives us an opportunity to do something rewarding, improve our home and save money.

It’s important to remember however that painting windows, doors and trim with oil based paints is an involved process and requires more steps and care than simply painting interior walls with latex based paints. Because of this added complexity and cost, it’s wise to take the proper steps to ensure the job is done right and reduce the risk of wasted time and money.

A few important steps that you need to take to prepare your surfaces for painting:

Strip off the old paint with a heat gun, chemicals or sandpaper. If the surface is badly cracked or damaged you will need to apply filler putty to fill in the cracks and build a smooth base. Sand the surface smooth and clean. Pull out (or pound in) any protruding nails or screws. Wipe the surfaces clean, preferably with a tack rag (sticky cloth that picks up debris and dirt) Apply a base coat of primer, follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Now your ready for paint!

To make your painting go faster and easier, always use quality paints and brushes. Make sure to follow manufacturer’s directions and don’t be afraid to ask questions when buying your paint. The staff at your local paint store will usually be happy to help.

One final note, take safety seriously! Paint and other chemicals are inflammable and can pose a serious safety hazard if mishandled.

Harriet Hodgson asked:




Your front door can make or break a sale. Would-be buyers will drive past a home that has a dingy front door. On the other hand, an attractive front door will lure would-be buyers inside. But as I discovered, choosing a paint color for the front door can be difficult.

I am putting my deceased daughter’s home up for sale next month. The siding is tan and the trim, shutters, and front door are white. Unfortunately, the door does not look fresh any more, thanks to hand prints and paw prints. Painting the door is at the top of my To Do list. Michelle Dawson tells why fresh paint is crucial to a sale in her article, “Want to Sell Quickly? Think Paint,” published on the Wells Fargo Web site.

“If nothing else, paint at least the door, door frame, and foyer or first room the would-be buyers will see,” she advises. I followed this advice and hired a painter to freshen up the interior walls.

Most homes have at least three paint colors, according to Jackie Craven, author of “Picking House Colors,” which is on the architecture.about.com Web site. One color us used for the siding, a second for the eaves and trim, and a third to accent the architecture. “A well-chosen selection of contrasting trim and accent colors can draw attention to architectural details and disguise design flaws,” she writes.

Thankfully, I have no design flaws to disguise. However, I have to deal with the fact that the house is on a curve, and the the first thing would-be buyers see is the garage — not too exciting. A bright front door would make would-be buyers notice the house. “What color should I choose?” I asked the painter.

“I’ve painted doors red, orange, and even purple,” he replied. “You need something more neutral.” Though we considered brown, the color was too neutral. After holding various paint chips against the siding, we chose a medium green that goes with grass and flowering plants. The choice also suits the neighborhood, something else to consider.

Paint colors vary from region to region, according to Al Heavens, author of “Right Paint Choices are Key to Resale,” published on the Reality Times Web site. He thinks “a spanking-new paint job that’s crisp and fresh can really reel them[would-be buyers] in no matter where you live.”

A gardener is going to plant flowers alongside the garage to give the house more curb appeal The flowers will lead would-be buyers to the front door and colorful porch planters. “How to Add Interest to a Front Door,” published on http://www.About.com, contains other tips for sellers, including washing the windows, watering plants [and a lawn] regularly, and adding a seasonal flag.

I am doing all I can to sell the house. Hopefully, these changes will get would-be buyers’ attention, lure them inside, and make them want to live there. If you are selling your home think about painting the front door a happy, welcoming color. A little paint can lead to lots of offers.

Simon Harris asked:




As the executer of my father’s estate it fell upon me to sell their home. As I wanted to obtain the best price possible to help support my mother in her declining years I decided to do a few cosmetic fixes to the home. One way to do this was by painting the vinyl siding that had been installed about 7 years ago. In that time it has become slightly the worse for wear. The color had changed from off white to a mixture of pink and brown.

Initially, power washing appeared to be the best way to clean it in preparation for painting the vinyl siding. Luckily I checked with the company that had installed the siding originally. They explained that the power washer could actually do more damage than good. Forcing the water through the cracks and openings in the siding could cause hidden damage beneath the siding. If you decide to do an initial power wash first, use reduced pressure and make all the strokes going down. Upward movement can force the water where you do not want it to go.

The installers’ recommendation to clean prior to painting the vinyl siding was to use soap, water, a bucket, and a sponge. I soon discovered they had failed to mention the key ingredient, elbow grease. To expedite the timing between cleaning and painting I decided to do only one side of the house at a time. Two sides of the house had patches of mold and we were able to remove them with an oxygen bleach. It will not harm the siding or your vegetation while chlorine bleach will. Wear gloves when you apply the bleach. Finally, vinyl siding will oxidize over time. We found a few spots and carefully removed them with steel wool. These spots needed to be primed with a vinyl primer before painting.

I then discovered that once the cleaning was complete, so was most of the work. Between advice from the siding installer and the local paint store clerks, I was able to pick the right paint and tint for painting the vinyl siding. Both said to get the best grade of paint possible and to use a tint that was as near to the original as possible. The paint needs to be a mixture of urethane and acrylic resins that will expand and contract with the siding.

Paint needs to be applied to a clean, dry and cool surface. I choose to paint early in the morning before the sun had made it’s full appearance and the breezes had picked up. This added a little to the days required to finish the job, but made up for it in the smooth professional finish I obtained.

Hilary Basile asked:




Perhaps it’s time to freshen up your home’s décor, or add some color to any plain, white walls offering no color or textural interest. Add some personality and style to rooms with some new paint.

Since it generally takes less than one hour to paint one wall in a room, painting tends to be a home improvement project people feel comfortable tackling on their own. Following are some tips to make painting projects quick and simple:

Select a quality paint. With paint, you tend to get what you pay for. Lower quality paint may produce a lower quality look. Find a mid-priced product from a name brand manufacturer for the best result at a reasonable cost. Prepare your work area. Make sure you properly tape, drape and protect any wood trim, windows, floors, carpet and furniture. Properly preparing your work area will result in a higher quality look and will make your post-project clean up much easier. Begin with the ceiling. Beginning with the ceiling ensures that any paint drips that hit the walls won’t ruin a fresh paint job. Wall color tends to look the best under a bright, freshly painted ceiling. Use a power roller. Invest in a power roller to get the job done more efficiently. It also makes for easier clean up. With a power roller, the paint is fed directly from the can to the wall, thus eliminating the need for paint trays. It will allow you to paint almost 20 square feet per minute. Use a criss-cross motion. When first rolling the paint on the wall, it is best to use a criss-cross motion then paint back over the area in an up and down motion. This will ensure even coverage and will minimize paint drips. Use a paintbrush for corners and edges. If using a power roller, roll as close to the corners and edges as possible without bumping the roller into the ceiling. Use a paintbrush to finish the corners, edges and other small spaces. Contain the mess. Contain the mess for an easier clean up. If using dustsheets, fold them over, carry them outside, then shake them out. Make sure the paint is dry before removing masking tape from window and carpet edges. Clean all paint brushes immediately.

Painting offers a flexible way to add pizzazz to any room in your home.